Monday 22 June 2015

Roll up for Beijing Line 6

Just had two weeks in Shanghai, Chengdu, Suzhou and Beijing. Instead of the international hotel I hired an airbnb apartment about 8 stops east on the 6 line in Beijing. Nary a westerner in sight! It was riveting. Catching the crowded tube each morning was fascinating. Not nearly as scary as some people warned but hectic nonetheless. It helped that I've lived in London on and off for years and know how to take the knocks in the Underground.

Actually, the Beijing stations have arrows marking where the train doors are and people stand in an orderly line. The only pressure comes when a crowd is desperate to get on and perceive there still to be enough space. Then there's a shove which is a bit like a rugby scrum when the ball goes in. But there's no aggro really. There's no point, people do it day after day.

I was with an investment bank for some of the time and those Chinese lunches..... My mother always used to make me clean my plate with the admonition: think of the poor, starving millions in China.... Well, no more, I just couldn't handle all the food. Courses were piling up around my place setting.

We have a Chinese Tiger Mum story from London. She used to arrive about an hour early at our son's prep school in Hampstead so that she could park right outside the exit. So when her boys came out she would whisk them home quickly to start their homework. The one son is at uni now studying.... Egyptology, go figure.

Friday 19 June 2015

The Great Wall of Smaze

Flying into Shanghai I was greeted by a layer of haze that covered the entire region. It was tempting to label this smog as I've heard so much about the hazardous levels of the stuff in Chinese cities. We've heard about how the smog levels in Beijing dropped significantly during the Olympics as the government forced loads of factories to shut down for the duration of the event. But it turns out smog isn't always visible. I was in Beijing too, and there were days when perfectly clear blue sky emerged on a virtually windless day as high cloud lifted. But the recorded air quality index for the day didn't change that much. I flew from Chengdu to Beijing one morning and didn't see the ground at all through the entire trip (about 1500 kms). I'm sure that wasn't all pollution. Maybe China's just a hazy country :). During my two week trip the recorded AQI levels in Beijing and Shanghai were 'moderate' despite the hot days. Chengdu was higher, in the 'unhealthy' range. Back in Cape Town I went surfing in a big north-wester at Muizies and there was quite a haze over the bay. Cape Town also has its pollution problems but that day the air was clean and sweet. The pic is a section of the Great Wall of China. Now there's a place to get some exercise. And is that smog in the distance?